fabric information
Selecting the right fabrics for your projects may seem like an overwhelming
task, but there are a few simple guidelines to help narrow the field. One good
way to learn about fabrics is to browse through a fabric store, handling the
fabrics and reading the fiber content information and care instructions
printed on the ends of the bolts.
You may already know whether you want a solid color, a printed pattern, or perhaps a multicolored fabric.
Do you need a fabric that can be laundered frequently?
Do you want smooth or textured, stiff or drapable, lightweight or heavy? Some basic fabric knowledge and a
thought-out plan will help you make wise choices and avoid costly errors.
FIBER CONTENT
Natural fabrics are made from plant or animal fibers, spun into yarns: cotton, wool, silk, and linen are most common. Naturals are often considered the easiest fabrics to sew. Synthetic fabrics, made from chemically produced fibers, include nylon, acrylic, acetate, and polyester.
Rayon is a man-made fiber made from a plant source. Each fiber has unique characteristics, desirable for different reasons.
Many fabrics are a blend of natural and synthetic fibers, offering you the best qualities of each, such as the breathable comfort of cotton blended with the wrinkle resistance of
polyester.
WOVEN FABRICS
Woven fabrics have straight lengthwise and crosswise yarns. The pattern in which the yarns are woven gives the fabric its characteristic surface texture and appearance. The outer edges of woven fabrics are called selvages.
As a general rule, they should be trimmed away because they are often heavier than the rest of the fabric, and they may shrink when laundered or pressed.
Grainlines are the directions in which the fabric yarns run. Strong, stable lengthwise yarns, running parallel to the selvages, form the lengthwise grain.
The crosswise grain is perpendicular to the lengthwise grain and has a small amount of give. Any diagonal direction, called the bias, has a fair amount of stretch.
KNIT FABRICS
Knit fabrics consist of rows of interlocking loops of yarn, as in a hand-knit sweater, but usually on a finer scale. Knit fabrics are more flexible than other fabrics, and they all stretch.
These features mean that garments made of knits require less fitting and offer more freedom of movement. When sewing with knits, select patterns that are specifically designed for knit fabrics.
knit fabric is made from interlocking looped stitches. The lengthwise rows of stitches are called ribs; the crosswise rows are called courses.
These ribs and courses correspond to the lengthwise and crosswise grains of woven fabrics.
Patterns designed for knit fabrics have a stretch gauge. Fold over the fabric along a crosswise course several inches (centimeters) from a cut end, and test its degree of stretch against the gauge. If the fabric stretches the
necessary amount without distortion, it is suitable for the pattern.
FABRIC SHOPPING
Fabrics in a store are divided into fashion fabrics and decorator fabrics.
Decorator fabrics are generally more durable than fashion fabrics; most have stain-resistant finishes. They are designed for pillows, slipcovers, window treatments, and other home decorating projects.
They are manufactured in widths (crosswise grain) of 48″ or 54″ (122 or 137 cm), though occasionally you may find some wider.
To prevent creases, decorator fabrics are rolled ontubes.
Fashion fabrics are usually folded double and rolled on cardboard bolts.
They vary in width; the most common are 36″, 45″, and 60″ (91.5, 115, and 152.5 cm).
Though fashion fabrics are intended for apparel, many of them are also suitable for home decorating.
Most stores arrange their fashion fabrics according to the fiber content or fabric style. For example, all the wools and wool blends, suitable for skirts, slacks, and jackets, may be found together in one area of the store; all the bridal and special-occasion fabrics located in another area; quilting fabrics (lightweight cottons) in another.
This is not a hard-and-fast rule, however, so you will want to spend time getting acquainted with the fabric stores you shop.
FABRIC PREPARATION
Preshrink washable fabric before cutting out the project, by washing and drying it in the same way you will care for the finished item.
Because most decorator fabrics are not washable and require dry cleaning when necessary, preshrink them by pressing with steam, moving the iron evenly along the grainlines. Allow the fabric to dry before moving it.
