Problem with a particular technique:
The embroidery is thick and hard like cardboard:
the pattern is too dense, you have to lower its density (with software) or slightly increase its size, for example by 5% (with software or with the embroidery machine)
the bobbin is not filled with special bobbin thread (it is thinner)
The embroidery is thick, the machine makes an unusual noise and the needle breaks:
the pattern is too dense, because you have reduced its size: the density of the points must be reduced
Problems with the second or third embroidered design in the same frame? Instead, embroider very dense FSL designs individually, with the smallest hoop possible:
The embroidery completely unravels when rinsing the stabilizer: wrong choice of pattern…it was not a pattern designed for FSL lace, but perhaps a classic pattern or designed to embroider on organza or tulle.
Embroidery warps and curls when drying: pin it to a polystyrene backing to dry
FSL embroidery uses a lot of thread: how to do it more economically?
Buy 10,000m embroidery floss cones, it’s cheaper if you make series of FSL designs. Just put them on a spool stand next to the machine to be able to embroider.
Problems with an appliqué that curls or frays?
How to precisely cut the excess fabric: after the step of the straight stitch which secures the fabric, cut from the wrong side of the fabric of the appliqué by lifting the edge
Try different kinds of scissors to see which works best for you:
The fabric of the appliqué puckers: iron it before cutting it. Before hanging, use a temporary glue spray or school glue stick to hold it in place. It can also be interwoven with vlieseline.
I cut the finishing satin stitch by mistake:
if it is slightly damaged, put a dot of anti-fraying glue
if it is very damaged, unstitch and redo the area concerned.
If the fabric has been removed from the frame you can redo it with a tight zig-zag stitch on the sewing machine
choose appliqué patterns with a wide (satin) stitch around it, which will hide any imperfections.
Namely, a good appliqué pattern has three steps:
fabric position straight stitch
straight stitch for fastening the fabric, after which the fabric is cut
wide satin stitch finish
Applique patterns with only a straight stitch, this is an appliqué with raw edges where the fabric will fray, unless it is covered beforehand. It is made on purpose for a modern style.
If you find appliqué patterns with just a finishing stitch (satin or decorative): the fabric will be difficult to recut and the result will not be neat, the threads of the fabric will remain to protrude. In my opinion, this is not desirable, but everyone is free to decide what they prefer 😉
The embroidered pattern disappears into the fabric
avoid patterns and lettering that are too fine (redwork type)
choose a pattern that is denser and more covering (or designed for your specific fabric)
and have a water-soluble stabilizer to flatten any lint or curls under the embroidery
The thick fabric does not fit in the frame or is marked by the frame (case of velvet)
All-in-frame patterns (ITH)
Don’t say anymore “it’s too complicated, I can’t find it”: start with a simple pattern, for example a key ring
…and for more intricate designs organize your supplies in advance by attaching them in stages
In the event of a major skid:
Stop the machine, remove the frame, restart
Go back in the pattern
Put invisible tape to maintain the areas that need it
Take back the work